Waves and Beaches by Willard Bascom && Kim McCoy

Author:Willard Bascom && Kim McCoy
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Patagonia Inc
Published: 2021-01-05T00:00:00+00:00

PLUNGING WAVE A plunging breaker peaks up and curls over as it encounters a rapid change in depth, such as over a bar or reef. Pipeline, Hawai‘i. Brian Bielmann

A spilling wave breaks slowly and without the violent release of energy needed to fling the crest forward into the trough ahead. Its crest merely tumbles down a more gently sloping forward side, sometimes over a considerable distance and lasting for several minutes. Therefore, spilling breakers are much favored by novice surfers, who ride on the face of the wave, their boards doing much the same thing the tumbling white water is doing.

The famous surfing area at Waikiki, where surfers in outrigger canoes and on boards are frequently photographed against Diamond Head, is a fine place to observe perfect spilling breakers. There, a very shallow, gently sloping coral reef extends for 1 mile (1.6 km) outward from the beach. The tide range is very small so that almost all swell coming in from the Pacific is converted into low, spilling breakers. The surfer can paddle out as far as desired and be assured of a ride back.

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